Italian designers celebrate sartorial craft at Milan shows

Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:38pm EST
 
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By Antonella Ciancio

MILAN (Reuters) - Italian designers put craftsmanship before reckless glamour at the Milan fashion week, in a bid to defend their tailoring tradition in the face of global competition.

Fashion houses PPR's Bottega Veneta, Roberto Cavalli and Ermanno Scervino on Saturday proposed sculpted flannel coats and steel-embroidered dresses for their 2013-14 autumn-winter collections.

"I am based in Florence because this is where I find a know-how that I don't find anywhere else," Scervino told Reuters in the backstage of his packed show.

Both Scervino and Cavalli dedicated their events to Florence, a city famous for its artisanal leather goods, also the signature lines of Italian fashion giants Salvatore Ferragamo and Gucci.

"What does art represent for a Florentine? A sense of place, a form of nostalgia, a necessity, a consequence," Cavalli said in a statement to accompany his show, attended by American singer Janet Jackson.

The Florence-based designer, known for his leather-fringed dresses in animal prints, said he was inspired by floral motifs by 16th century painter Caravaggio for his classic collection.

The city of Florence was also projected on the backdrop of Scervino's catwalk, where models wore masculine grey flannel coats cut close to the waist to add femininity.

Tomas Maier, creative director at Bottega Veneta, cut vertical lines into thick flannel coats to add movement to the sculpted forms.   Continued...

 
A model displays a creation from Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2013 collection at Milan Fashion Week February 23, 2013. REUTERS/Tony Gentile