Spanish chef Arzak has no plans to leave the cutting edge

Tue May 1, 2012 7:03am EDT
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By Emma Pinedo

MADRID (Reuters) - Chef Juan Mari Arzak has done much to put Spain's culinary heritage on the map and aims to keep it there despite an economic crisis by researching new ideas and giving free rein to the imagination.

Arzak's restaurant ranked eighth at the S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna World's 50 Best Restaurants awards on Monday night. His joint Head Chef and daughter Elena Arzak was given the Veuve Clicquot World's Best Female Chef award.

Arzak senior has won praise for taking Basque cuisine's ancient traditions in new directions without going to quite the same innovative lengths as renowned compatriot Ferran Adria.

Perhaps his most famous dish is pate made from the unsightly but tasty scorpion fish, which he created more than 40 years ago and has since become a feature in restaurants and delicatessens across Spain.

Rather than culinary foam or paella made from rice crispies, the Michelin three-starred Arzak restaurant draws from mainly local ingredients to dish up combinations like monkfish with bronzed onion, or lamb injected with freeze-dried beer.

"Research is the way forward. We didn't become avant-garde with traditional cooking, the baby squid my mother made, gazpacho or tripe," Arzak told Reuters in an interview.

"We are at the cutting edge due to modern cuisine, evolution and the avant-garde. I keep saying you need to build on what you have, on factories, workshops. It's tough, but you have to carry on, bank on imagination," he added during a visit to Madrid.

Arzak, 69, fulfilled a long-held dream this year by opening the Basque Culinary Centre near his 19th century tavern in the well-heeled northern resort of San Sebastian.   Continued...