Yves Saint Laurent shows restrained femininity

Mon Oct 3, 2011 6:57pm EDT
 
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By Alexandria Sage

PARIS (Reuters) - Yves Saint Laurent offered a superbly tailored but tempered collection for spring-summer 2012 on Monday, with designer Stefano Pilati drawing on the past of the famous luxury label without providing any jaw-dropping standouts.

Mint and forest greens, greys and whites were the palette, with trapeze coats, cigarette pants and backless silk tops providing a nod to the 1960s and 70s, the heyday of Saint Laurent.

But the collection was restrained, as a counterpoint to the venue. Inside the opulent Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, models walked a circuitous catwalk that wove through six individual rooms, heavy crystal chandeliers and painted ceilings of angels and cherubs overhead.

The crowd included Australian pop star Kylie Minogue, French actress Isabelle Huppert, and Mexican actress Salma Hayek, who is married to Francois-Henri Pinault, chief executive and chairman of the PPR Group which owns the luxury label.

With insecurity the sentiment du jour, it might be best to show restraint. As the line notes for the show cryptically state, Pilati "forges ahead of the dull obscurities of the moment with a crystalline vision for Yves Saint Laurent."

LADYLIKE

Whether Yves Saint Laurent considers the global economic malaise to be dull or obscure was unclear. But the Italian Pilati showed none of the over-the-top exuberance seen in the recent shows in Milan, where bold primary colors, fringe, sparkle and shimmer seemed to shout "ciao!" to the euro-zone crisis and general sentiment of gloom.

A mint-green swing coat ending at mid-thigh and overlaid with black tulle detailing jumpstarted the show and set the tone for ladylike looks that could have adorned a young Audrey Hepburn.   Continued...

 
<p>Models appear after a presentation by Italian designer Stefano Pilati for the Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2012 women's ready-to-wear fashion collection show in Paris October 3, 2011. REUTERS/Pascal Rossignol</p>